Ok, So Today My Dumb Arse Pulled My BOttom Head(Stock Pearl Mylar HEad)......I was wondering if *Temporarily* while my new head came to me, If i could put the stock Pearl batter head(mylar) on the bottom to keep practicing on my drum with a decent sound.....WHat do you guys think?(I know im crazy for thinking about it but im desperate)

im not sure what you mean by pulling your bottom head and what exactly is wrong with the head? but if the head is fine then why not?


yea, you can probobly use the old batter head as a bottom head as long as you tune it as if it was a bottom head and dont overtighten it. mylar is fine on a high tenson bottom head so you should be ok for a quick fix.

By pulling it I meant that I tightened it too much at once and it ripped.......also if I can use it for a while, what new head should I look into for the bottom(I like a wet sound) and i have a blackmax on top.

on my snare drum i have a blackmax top and falam II on the bottom. (i have a Dynasty drum) and it is a nice wet sound but with still plenty of snare response. i would say use a pad and order a head from steve weiss because they ship fast and you wont ruin your drum but using the mylar bater head wont really ruin your drum as long as you dont tighten it like a batter head and like a snare side head.

do not put a batter head on the bottom. for one: the heads are designed for high torque whether is a mylar or not. the bottom of your snare is very fragile and can not take the tension the stress ring on the top of the drum can take.

the bearing edge and snare bed on the bottom are preciously cut. the head will not form around the bed therefor you will have no snare response.

Over all its a bad decision there is a reason why snare side heads are thin.



as far as the Falam II bottom mention. its obviously specifically designed for the snare side. it is different then its batter head counter part. so saying you have a Falam II on the bottom is a mute point

A batter head on the bottom is gonna sound like garbage. Batter heads are too thick to get any kind of decent snare response. They're also too thick to conform to the snare bed properly. (The bottom bearing edge isn't completely flat like the top one. There's a small indention in the shell where the guts cross. That indention is called the snare bed.)

As for a new head... If you like a wet sound from Mylar, the Ludwig Xtra Thin (C1114) is a great head. The Remo Marching Ambassador or Evans MS3 are also good choices.

remo marching ambassador?? will the hazy snare side ambassador do?

Hazy heads are fine, but you'll want the marching version. The difference between the regular and marching snare sides is the collar. The regular head has a 1/2" collar and the marching version doesn't. (See the attached image.) That way, you get an extra 1/2 inch of "crankability" before you crank the rim past the bearing edge of the drum and need to double-rim.

If you're buying snare side heads, one way to tell the marching heads apart is by looking at Remo's part number. The marching heads will end in "-TD". For example, the regular 14" hazy ambassador snare side is SA-0114-00. The marching version is SA-0114-TD. I think the marching hazy ambassador might have been discontinued recently, so you may want to look for the clear version instead: SA-0314-TD.

i see,it seems i picked up the one with the collar and the drum sounds nice,but it has a bad overring........advice to eliminate that?

either learn how to tune better...search for threads about that, or take the quick and easy way and take a paper towel or tissue and fold it up and tape it to the bottom head.